Wednesday
Wednesday was Czech's Independence day—actually the day they were no longer under the Austrian Empire, and the day that they became Czechoslovakia. Soooo, Spence couldn't go to work today! We got ready and ate breakfast and were ready for Michael and Lucy who picked us up at 10:00. Michael wanted to take us out of the city so we could see a little of the Czech countryside. It was alive with fall colors, and the charming cottages in the villages were fun to see. We started out with a hike above a monastery built around a cave where a Christian pilgrim, Ivan lived. This Ivan had John the Baptist come to him, and there was a statue built in the 1300's commemorating the event. They also built a chapel around the statue, so first we hiked to the cross at the top of the hill overlooking everything. The view was amazing! And it felt so good to be outside.
Then we went to the monastery below. It was under construction, and really not in very good condition. Michael said that in Soviet times it had been converted into a school, and since the Czech Republic is unlike most European countries which use taxes to maintain their churches, the churches have to depend on the people to give them money, and it's hard to maintain them. Still, the altar and art was beautiful. But the cave was the coolest—literally. I guess after Ivan had lived there, it became an abbey of sorts. So they put up some concrete and made this cave into living quarters. I couldn't imagine living there.
After that, Michael took us to Karlstejn Castle, and this was something else. We followed a narrow, windy road to get there, and we didn't tell Michael and Lucy I am expecting, so Michael just zipped along. By the end, I was really not feeling well at all! Luckily, we had a fairly long walk up a hill before we got there, and we grabbed a sandwich before we left. The fresh air and food settled my stomach. The castle was built in the 1300's by Charles IV, who was not only King of Bohemia, but was also chosen as the king of the Holy Roman Empire—he seems to have been the great builder and visionary of his day, most likely to the detriment of his people. This castle was a series of towers with tall narrow staircases, and stone walls that were over 20 feet thick in areas. It was built to house his coronation jewels along with holy relics that he had collected. The chapels in the castle were the most amazing. The most important chapel which housed the jewels especially was well-preserved and unbelievable. The walls were covered with encrustation, which was plaster that had semi-precious stones embedded and gold leafing surrounding that. It gave the appearance of walking into a solid gold and red room. I was amazed when I walked in and saw the walls, and then I realized as I looked up that the gold gilded the massive vaulted ceilings as well. Of course we couldn't take pictures, so you'll just have to imagine. It was incredible. The walls were also lined with portraits of saints painted on wood, so they too were well-preserved. Some saints had holes drilled in their hands or other parts of them, and our tour guide said that was where Charles stored parts of the relics that belonged to them—supposedly giving them more power. Anyway, it was pretty crazy and cool.
I think our walk back to the car is what endeared the Czech people to me the very most. This was a very touristy part of town, and there were cute little shops that lined the street the whole way up to the castle. It was here that we bought souvenirs for the kids. We also got to eat some traditional Bohemian pastries. Yummy. Well, as we were almost to our car, there was a shop lady chasing after us, waving a black rectangular thing. I didn't even recognize her, but she was returning my coin purse that had my driver's license, my credit cards, my money—everything! She had run all the way down the hill to find us, and I was so grateful. So, there might be pickpockets on Charles Bridge, but I think you'll find good people all over the world.
After we got back from the castle, I rested while Spencer worked, and then Michael picked us up again at 7:00 for dinner at Svata Klara restaurant. This time Andreas joined us. Andreas is the Microsoft contact for Prague based in Munich, Germany. He is easy to talk to and very funny, so it was great to have him along.
This was by far the fanciest place I have ever eaten in my life. Full on, with chefs in hats, waiters in tuxedos, taking your coat at the door, candle light and fine wine. We had 2 or 3 men who attended to our needs. It was located also in a cave that was converted into a wine cellar. It had low lantern lighting, fine linens, red tapestries, and beautiful ambiance. We had an option of either choosing the special 6-course meal that was on the menu that evening or else ordering from the book that was the a la carte menu. Spence was the only one who got the 6-course meal. It kind of became a joke, because he was eating long after we all were done. I had a French onion soup and then the traditional goose with dumplings and pickled cabbage. It was delicious, but so heavy. I could only finish maybe half of my entrée. But not to fear, Spence helped me out—which I'm sure was not kosher for where we were dining.
It was such a lovely evening to finish off an incredible day, but then we came back to the hotel and listened to our messages. A stressed out Kim was on the other line saying she needed to have a little guidance regarding Elyse. Come to find out, both she and Stephanie had an especially hard day. I felt so bad for them. While Kim was upstairs, Elyse climbed on the counter, got the scissors, hid behind the couch and did what she does best--cut her ponytail and a lock of hair right to her scalp in the very front. Aww, Elyse. I felt worse about how badly Kim felt than I did for what happened. That's par for the course for Elyse. I think this will make the third or fourth time doing it, and I don't know why she does. She's always so sad with the results, but poor Kim was pushed to her limit that day, I could tell. And poor Stephanie. I guess Kian had a day as well—throwing two of his record temper tantrums. They make me, his own mother, a little crazy. I can't imagine what it did to Steph. It was time for me to resume my rightful place, and take over my terror children once again. J Steph and Kim will so value their own children after this experience.
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